Your front loader gets your clothes clean every day. But who’s cleaning it?
If your laundry smells musty even after a fresh wash, your machine is telling you something. The good news? A deep clean fixes it fast. And once you know the steps, it takes less than an hour.
Here’s exactly how to clean a front loader washing machine and get rid of that smell for good.
Why Front-Loader Washing Machines Smell
Front-loaders are great at saving water and energy. But that efficiency comes with a trade-off.
The rubber door seal (called the gasket) traps moisture after every wash. Detergent residue builds up inside it. Add a sealed door and limited airflow, and you’ve got the perfect environment for mould and mildew to grow.
Other reasons your machine might smell:
- You mostly wash on cold cycles. Low temperatures don’t kill bacteria.
- You leave wet laundry sitting inside after the cycle ends.
- The drain filter is blocked with lint and gunk.
- You’re using too much detergent, leaving residue behind.
The smell isn’t coming from your clothes. It’s coming from the machine itself.
It’s also worth knowing that front-loaders are more prone to this than top-loaders. The horizontal drum design means water naturally pools at the bottom of the door seal. Top loaders drain more freely. So, if you’ve switched from a top loader and noticed more smell issues, that’s exactly why.
How Often Should You Clean a Front Loader?
You don’t need to deep clean it every week. But you do need a routine.
- After every load: Leave the door open to let the drum dry out.
- Every week: Wipe the gasket and door glass with a damp cloth.
- Every month: Run a full cleaning cycle and wipe down the dispenser drawer.
- Every 1 to 3 months: Clean the drain filter.
Stick to this, and you’ll rarely deal with bad smells again.
If you live in a humid climate or your laundry is in a poorly ventilated space, increase the frequency. Humidity speeds up mould growth. A small laundry fan or keeping a window open while the machine runs can help a lot.
What You’ll Need
You probably already have everything at home.
- White vinegar
- Bicarbonate of soda (bicarb soda)
- A microfibre cloth
- An old toothbrush
- A shallow tray or old towel (for the filter step)
- Optional: a washing machine cleaning tablet
That’s it. No expensive products needed.
If you want to use a commercial cleaner, look for one that’s specifically labelled for front loaders. Products like Calgon or Dettol washing machine cleaner work well as an occasional alternative. But vinegar and bicarb handle most of the work just fine for regular monthly maintenance.
Step-by-Step: Deep Cleaning a Front Loader
Work through these steps in order. Each one targets a different source of grime.
Step 1: Wipe down the door seal
Pull back the rubber gasket folds and look inside. You’ll likely find dark spots, trapped lint, and built-up residue. Spray a mix of equal parts white vinegar and water onto a cloth and wipe the entire seal. Get into every fold. Use the toothbrush on stubborn spots.
This is the step most people skip. It’s also the most important one.
Step 2: Clean the detergent dispenser
Pull the drawer out completely. Rinse it under warm water and scrub away any gloopy residue with the toothbrush. Check inside the drawer cavity too. Mould often hides in there. Wipe dry before putting the drawer back.
Step 3: Run a hot vinegar cycle
Pour two cups of white vinegar directly into the drum. Set the machine to the hottest cycle available, usually 60°C or higher. Let it run completely. The heat and vinegar break down mineral deposits and kill bacteria deep inside the drum.
Step 4: Run a hot bicarb cycle
Add half a cup of bicarb soda to the drum. Run another hot cycle. Bicarb neutralises odours and lifts any remaining residue. Together, these two cycles do what no single product can.
Step 5: Wipe everything dry
Once both cycles finish, leave the door open. Wipe the drum, door glass, and gasket with a dry microfibre cloth. Let the machine air out for at least an hour before closing the door.
A note on water temperature:
If your machine doesn’t have a 60°C setting, use the highest available option. Some machines label this as “hot wash” or “sanitary cycle.” Either works. The goal is heat, because that’s what kills mould spores and breaks down soap scum that builds up inside the drum over time.
How to Remove Mould from the Gasket
Mould in the gasket is the number one cause of a smelly front loader. Most cleaning guides tell you to wipe the seal. But you need to go further.
Pull the rubber fold back as far as it goes and look underneath. Black mould often hides in the deep creases where no one looks. If you see it, here’s what to do:
- Mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a spray bottle.
- Spray it directly onto the mouldy area.
- Leave it for 5 minutes.
- Scrub firmly with the old toothbrush.
- Wipe away with a damp cloth.
- Repeat if needed.
For heavy mould, you can use a small amount of diluted bleach. Apply it carefully, scrub, then rinse the area well with water. Don’t use bleach regularly, as it can damage the rubber over time.
After cleaning, dry the gasket completely. Moisture left behind just restarts the cycle.
Do this every week as part of your routine wipe-down. It takes two minutes and prevents the mould from coming back.
One more thing worth checking: the gasket itself. Over time, rubber seals crack, tear, or pull away from the drum. If you notice physical damage, the seal may need replacing. A damaged gasket holds even more water and is nearly impossible to keep mould-free. A technician can replace it, and it’s usually a straightforward fix.
Cleaning the Filter (Most People Forget This)
The drain filter catches lint, coins, hair, and anything else that makes it past the drum. If it gets blocked, water doesn’t drain properly. That trapped water goes stale and adds to the smell.
Most front-loaders have the filter behind a small panel at the bottom front of the machine. Check your manual if you’re not sure where it is.
Here’s how to clean it:
- Place a shallow tray or an old towel on the floor in front of the panel.
- Open the panel and slowly unscrew the filter cap. Water will come out, so go slowly.
- Pull the filter out and rinse it under warm running water.
- Remove any lint, debris, or buildup by hand.
- Scrub the filter with the toothbrush if needed.
- Screw it back in firmly and close the panel.
Do this every one to three months. You’ll be surprised by what comes out of there.
If water takes longer than usual to drain after a cycle, that’s often a sign the filter needs attention sooner. Don’t wait for the smell to appear. A partially blocked filter strains the pump motor too, which can lead to bigger repair bills down the line.
Daily and Weekly Maintenance Habits
Cleaning is easier when you prevent the problem from building up. These habits take almost no time.
- Leave the door open after every wash. This is the single most effective thing you can do.
- Wipe the gasket with a dry cloth after each load.
- Measure your detergent. Use the recommended amount. More detergent means more residue, not cleaner clothes.
- Use a high-efficiency (HE) detergent. It’s made for front loaders and produces less foam.
- Run a hot cycle at least once a week, even if you usually wash on cold.
- Once a month, run a dedicated cleaning cycle with vinegar or a machine cleaning tablet.
Small habits like these add years to your machine’s life. According to Choice Australia, regular maintenance is one of the top ways to extend appliance lifespan.
It’s also worth checking the hose at the back of the machine every few months. A kinked or partially blocked inlet hose affects water pressure and can leave detergent partially undissolved in the drum. That leftover soap feeds the bacteria that cause the smell. Straighten any kinks and make sure the hose connections are tight and clean.
When to Call a Professional (or Think About Replacing)
Sometimes cleaning isn’t enough.
If your machine still smells after a full deep clean, or the mould keeps coming back within days, something else may be going on. Worn door seals can harbour mould that surface cleaning won’t reach. Drum bearings that retain water can also cause persistent odours.
Other signs it might be time to get a technician involved:
- Visible mould that returns immediately after cleaning
- A damp smell even when the drum is empty
- The machine is more than 10 years old
- Longer drain times or water pooling at the bottom of the drum
If your machine is under five years old, a repair usually makes financial sense. Between five and ten years, weigh up the repair cost against a new machine. Beyond ten years, replacement is often the smarter move, especially with how much more energy-efficient modern front loaders have become.
If repairs cost more than half the price of a new machine, replacement often makes more sense. Browse the range of front loader washing machines at WA White Goods to find a reliable upgrade.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my front loader washing machine smell musty?
Moisture gets trapped in the door seal after every wash. When the door stays closed, that dampness has nowhere to go. Mould and bacteria grow in the gasket folds and cause the smell. Leaving the door open between washes is the simplest fix.
Can I use bleach to clean my washing machine?
You can, but keep it occasional. Bleach works well on heavy mould, but weakens rubber seals over time with regular use. White vinegar is a safer option for your monthly cleaning routine.
How often should I clean my washing machine?
A full deep clean once a month works well for most households. If you wash daily or have hard water, clean it every two to three weeks instead.
Should I leave my washing machine door open?
Always. Closing the door straight after a wash seals in moisture. Even leaving it slightly ajar makes a real difference to air circulation and mould prevention.
Will cleaning my washing machine extend its life?
It does. Mould and mineral buildup wear down seals and internal parts over time. A well-maintained machine runs more efficiently and lasts longer than one that’s neglected.
My machine still smells after cleaning. What should I do?
Go back to the gasket. Pull the rubber fold all the way back and check the deepest part of the seal. Then check the filter. If both are clean and the smell continues, call a technician. It may be an internal drainage issue.
A clean machine washes better, smells better, and lasts longer. Set a monthly reminder and work through these steps. Your machine does a lot for you. A little maintenance goes a long way.
